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lhotse mountain is the fourth
highest mountain on Earth (after Mount Everest, K2 and Kangchenjunga)
and is connected to Everest via the South Col. In addition to
the main summit at 8,516 metres above sea level, Lhotse Middle
(East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse Shar is 8,383 metres. It is
located at the border between Tibet (China) and Khumbu (Nepal)
lhotse mountain is best known for its proximity to Mount Everest
and the fact that climbers ascending the standard route on that
peak spend some time on its northwest face; see below. In fact
lhotse mountain has the smallest topographic prominence value
of any official eight-thousander, as it rises only 610 m (2,000
ft) above the South Col. Hence it is often seen as a minor eight-thousander.
However,lhotse mountain is a dramatic peak in
its own right, due to its tremendous south face. This rises
3.2 km (1.98 mi) in only 2.25 km (1.4 mi) of horizontal distance,
making it the steepest face of this size in the world. The south
face has been the scene of many failed attempts, some notable
fatalities, and very few ascents (one of them, by Tomo Cesen,
unverified)
An early attempt onlhotse mountain was by the 1955 International
Himalayan Expedition, headed by Norman Dyhrenfurth. It also
included two Austrians (cartographer Erwin Schneider and Ernst
Senn) and two Swiss (Bruno Spirig and Arthur Spöhel), and
was the first expedition in the Everest area to include Americans
(Fred Beckey, George Bell, and Richard McGowan). The Nepalese
liaison officer was Gaya Nanda Vaidya. They were accompanied
by 200 local porters and several climbing Sherpas. After a brief
look at the dangerous southern approaches of lhotse mountain
Shar, they turned their attention, during September and October,
to the West Cwm and the northwest face of Lhotse, on which they
achieved an altitude of about 8,100 metres (26,600 ft). They
were beaten back by unexpectedly strong wind and cold temperatures.
Under Schneider's direction they completed the first map of
the Everest area (1:50,000 photogrammetric). The expedition
also made several short films covering local cultural topics,
and made a number of first ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu
region.
The main summit of lhotse mountain
was first climbed on May 18, 1956 by the Swiss team of
Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount Everest/Lhotse
Expedition. On May 12, 1979, Zepp Maierl and Rolf Walter of
Austria made the first ascent of Lhotse Shar. Lhotse Middle
remained, for a long time, the highest unclimbed named point
on Earth; on May 23, 2001, its first ascent was made by Eugeny
Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bolotov and Petr Kuznetsov
of a Russian expedition.
On 31 December 1988, Krzysztof Wielicki, a Polish
climber, completed the first winter ascent of Lhotse.
As of October 2003, 243 climbers
have summitted Lhotse and 11 have died
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